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At the 21th of november, ATHRTY is dropping the second part of their new fall / winter collection called NETSU. This is the perfect opportunity for us to ask them some questions about what their design & production process looks like. All of their beautiful garments are produced in the Netherlands. This is not exactly following today’s fast-paced fashion world. We spoke with Jacqueline & Minerva, who are part of the team of ATHRTY, to get to know more.
What does the design process of a new collection look like? Where does it start?
When we start to brainstorm for a new collection, the first thing we need is inspiration. This can be found by reading books, watching movies, going to a museum, and going into nature. We pick topics that intrigue us deeply and somehow can be linked back to authorities: something or someone of great power, influence or value (cultural e.g.). Sometimes we decide on a theme very fast, other times we need more time to start up this creative process.
The steps of our design process are as following:
First we look for inspiration, then we make a mood board. We then look for fabrics and start sketching designs on paper. After that we make a working drawing digitally, then we digitalize the patterns and print them. We deliver the fabrics, working drawings, and patterns to the workshop to make samples. When everything is fine, we start the production of the collection.
ATHRTY produces all its garments and accessories locally, in the Netherlands. What were the reasons why did you choose this?
The reasons why we decided to produce our collections in the Netherlands has the following reasons. For the communication part, we do not have to communicate in another language or have to think about different time zones. Communication can be done easily and an answer is one Whatsapp message or phone call away.
Besides that, it is also physically easier to produce locally. It does not take a lot of effort or time to travel to the workshops we work with. There is a short line between our team and the workshop, which means we have better control over the whole process, for example when we need to deliver patterns or check if everything is going according to plan. This makes our transportation process more sustainable.
Last but not least, production in the Netherlands allows us to stimulate employment opportunities. We also know that fair salaries given to employers are fair compared to some other options.
To what extent are you involved in the production process?
The collections are produced by two workshops in Amsterdam. We deliver the patterns ourselves. Then they are digitized and printed by an external party, and after are being sent with the fabrics and working drawing to the workshop. Some items are being sampled first because we do not know for sure how they will turn out.
Then about the new collection.. What kind of pieces are included in the new drop?
When we launched the items of our first drop in the last week of October, we launched the FUJI t-shirts in the colors coffee, terracotta, and sand. We also launched the REYNISFJARA armor, KĪLAUEA bucket hat, and TAAL utility bag.
What materials are used for the items, and why these materials?
We have some basic fabrics that are rooted in every collection, e.g. vegan leather for our accessories. We also use a lot of heavy fabrics, because it contributes to an overall better shape and fit. For example for our t-shirts that are made of 330G thick fabric. Another example, the HEPHAESTUS coat is a softshell fabric that blocks wind and is water repellent.
The collection is named 'NETSU'. Can you tell me a little bit more about that?
For our fall/winter 20/21 collection we found inspiration in one of the most powerful, yet beautiful forces that can be found in nature. We are wildly inspired by volcanoes and their remarkable presence on this planet.
In 2016, Jacqueline went to Sicily and shot some gorgeous images of the volcano Etna. The beautiful volcanic landscape and colors that can be seen at a volcanic eruption, triggered us to do something with this topic. We took these images along into our design process to decide on silhouettes, colors and fabrics.
The name of our collection is NETSU. The word ‘netsu’ is Japanese and means ‘high temperature’. The word can also be associated with having a burning passion. With our collection, we are providing you a trip around the world with our selection of the most remarkable volcanoes and beautiful creations that exist because of it. These are a selection of ATHRTY’s personal favorite volcanoes or volcano associated things and all items link back to this.
What items can we expect for the second part of the drop? When does it release?
The items of the second drop can be expected November 21. You can expect the HEPHAESTUS coat, the OBSIDIAN cargo pants, the ETNA hoodie and the BASALT tote bag.