Source: GQ Magazine
Artivism and eco-conscience seem to be taking the industry by storm. We are increasingly witnessing the rise of an upcoming generation of designers pushing for new values throughout the whole creative process. Their work is aware and, while engaging with the art scene, it seeks to serve a higher purpose: telling a story which -in turn – has a direct impact on today’s social landscape.
The Next Cartel picked through the forthcoming London Fashion Week official calendar and we discovered the four upcoming designers setting a precedent for the future of the industry.
A Must Watch in this digital-only edition!
Source: Nicholas Daley
Nicholas Daley – Friday Feb. 19th, 16:00
“I believe every designer has a responsibility to continue to explore and challenge social issues that are present within our society.”
As the son to a Jamaican father and a Scottish mother, Daley has long upheld the practice of social activism through fashion, and he continues to amplify Black voices onto a global stage, by drawing inspiration from his own multicultural experiences. His collections are the perfect merging of two cultures: a celebration of diversity, telling the unique novelty and richness that only multiculturalism can bring to the table. There is something to be said about combining sturdy, traditional, British materials with the flare and spontaneity of jazz… it works! Or rather, this man makes it works. The designer’s catwalks are a sublime musical experience we wish we could attend every Friday evening. And tartan always makes its way onto the designs; you can take the man out of Scotland…
Daley works with established mills and manufacturers, thus supporting local commerce. He aims to appeal to a wider demographic, pursuing timelessness within ready-to-wear clothes to takle the issue of wastefulness in the textile industry. Ultimately, his products seem to be the personification of Daley himself. Creative, consistent, inspiring.
Source: Nicholas Daley
Source: IA London
IA LONDON – Saturday, Feb. 20th, 11.30
IA London seeks to “challenge the conventional notions of form, beauty, and function” by transforming the body sculpture as a whole. The Creative & Founder Ira Iceberg’s background in printmaking and fine art make the blend of art and fashion beautifully inevitable.
Most notably, it brings a wave of freshness, by reinterpreting the traditional runway format. IA London shows can amaze with a game of cutting-edge visuals or a performative piece. IA’s collections carry distinct narratives, and they serve a powerful purpose. Their vision lies not only in the story their clothes tell but also in the manufacturing process. All their production is made-to-order, and it exploits eco-friendly printing, made locally in London. As a result, their carbon footprint is significantly limited, and their waste is close to zero. It comes as no surprise that in 2019 IA received the “Ones to Watch” Award by London Fashion Scout.
ALHUWALIA – Saturday Feb. 20th, 16:15
“Everything that’s going on this year is really political, whether we like it or not, and it’s seeping into what we create.”
For too long, Asian and African stories have been told by European designers. Priya Alhuwalia is determined to tell her own story with her namesake label, which merges her Indian-Nigerian heritage by drawing inspiration from music and archive material, to mold the brand’s unique identity. Alhuwalia makes a point to save deadstock and vintage clothing. Acknowledging one of the major downsides of the fashion industry, the designer has bounded the brand to one of the values she grew up with: not being wasteful. Undeniably relevant both in her conceptualization and execution, the designer’s forward-thinking has made Alhuwalia a frontrunner in the arena of upcoming designers as well as in the future of fashion.
In its last SS21 collection, Alhuwalia teamed up with Lagos-born graphic designer Dennis McInnes: the result was a wonderful display of shapes and patterns seamlessly framed through the screen. And now we cannot wait to see which surprise the brand is holding for this London Fashion Week edition!
JENN LEE – Tuesday 23rd Feb. 12:45
Jenn Lee is where wild art meets business confidence, and the untamed feral Taiwan streets fall in love with the delicacy and composure of traditional clothing. Often working with sound and visual artists, as well as experimental motion graphics and dance, Lee employs the use of deconstructive and eccentric art inspirations – such as Leigh Bowery – and collaborations as means of tearing down the mainstream notion of beauty. Since the inception of the brand, Lee has championed the use of her designs as a tool to empower and liberate women, allowing them to embrace wilderness and revel their own confidence- and, therefore, their beauty. A look back at her 2020 F/W collection will reveal the fierceness that, embodied in the garments, seeps into your subconscious, unavoidably making you want to take on the world wearing an insanely badass ECO-Fabric ensemble. Lee stands firmly in favour environmental protection and believes that reengineering waste into beautiful clothing in key in moving towards a future in which fashion gives back and contributes to society. For her last collection she used yarn made out of discarded Milkfish scales, a primary food source in Taiwan. What’s next? We’ll find it out on Tuesday!
Source: Jenn Lee Studio
Written by Marina Azcárate